WILTON – A number of local farmers are looking for answers in regards to a large grant that was recently awarded to Black Acres Farm. The federally funded Agricultural Infrastructure Investment Program grant, “leftover” dollars from the American Rescue Plan Act, was announced in December with a cap of $250,000 for farms, and $500,000 for processing facilities.
Of 25 Franklin County applicants, Black Acres, a beef and pork farm in Wilton, was the only recipient of a $224,500 award. Some of the other applicants are questioning the state’s decision to award a sole grant to Black Acres, state Senator Russell Black’s family farm. Black is the District 17 senator and committee member for the Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry.
Sen. Black said it was his son, James Black, who applied for the grant. The farm is in a trust under the names of the Black children. James said they knew that the grant would be judged by “outside agencies,” so he felt his dad’s position with the state wouldn’t pose an issue.
“I never dreamed we would get it,” James said.
The $224,500 award will cover the expenses for an updated processing facility, additional cold storage, and an upgrade to their commercial kitchen.
“We’re super excited about it. With all the issues with meat processing during Covid, we really need more local meat. This will allow us to make sure we have good quality meats on hand to serve to the community,” James said.
He said during the pandemic their storefront was almost always sold out. The upgrades and expansions will allow them to process more meat and have more product on hand to meet local demand.
But many of the other farmers who applied are upset with how the situation was handled by the state. Of the more than 850 applications received statewide, only 64 were offered awards of $300,000 on average. Roughly $19.3 million was given out overall. According to the department’s website, the decision was made after months of review, by both internal judges and 40 “external reviewers.” Jim Britt, director of communications for the Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry, did not respond to several requests for details on who the external reviewers were.
The bulk of farms that applied were small operations. Considering the amount of time and energy the grant application required, Erica Emery of Rustic Roots Farm said it was disappointed to not be selected. She had applied for roughly $30,000 for a vegetable wash and pack building.
“Big money went to big farms, and so much energy was put in by small farms. I’m disappointed, but I’m very excited for food processing dollars to go to Franklin County. I’m excited for James and Russell,” Emery said.
Ashley Bessey, of Speakeasy Chèvre in Chesterville, said the details never mentioned that the grant was specifically for “high-impact, high-yield” operations.
Bessey had asked for $140,000 to expand barn space for her goats, and to install a small commercial kitchen for her cheese-making operation. She worked closely with a former grant writer for the state, as well as her daughter who writes grants professionally.
After multiple drafts and reviews, compiling letters of recommendations, showing commitments from local businesses who were ready to buy her cheese, and collaborations with other local farms, Bessey felt like she was a good fit for the grant. The 4-year-old business currently sells out of a roadside stand thanks to Chesterville’s food sovereignty laws, but Bessey felt they were ready to grow.
“We were in a position to take a leap. This money would have allowed us to do that,” Bessey said.
