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Foot and Paddle: Back on the snow

19 mins read

Hiking Perham Stream Birding Trail

A new winter hiking season begins! Each year I am on watch for the first storms that will carry lasting snow cover to Franklin County’s high ground. Winter hiking boots, snowshoes, crampons, trekking poles with snow baskets, a daypack with warm mitts, balaclava, wool hat, and just-in-case supplies sits, packed, in a corner. I am ready and waiting.

Bright sun and a brisk northwest wind follow a steady December snowfall, and I am out the door to start my on-foot winter season. This year I choose to begin at the Perham Stream Birding Trail, always high on my “go-to” list. Here await striking views of the Mt. Abraham, Saddleback, and Tumbledown-Jackson Ranges, from trails level or gently sloping on historic farm ground in East Madrid, north of Phillips.

View towards Mt. Abraham.

The Perham Stream Settlement and Birding Trail

The Trailhead is at the site of the Perham Stream Settlement, a busy farming area in the 1800’s. Here farm families tended sheep and cattle, and grew grain and row crops, sending the products of their labors to the outside world via the Sandy River and Rangeley Lakes Railroad, which ran west of the Settlement along Orbeton Stream. East Madrid had a post office in this location, and a public school. These two once-adjacent structures no longer stand, but their foundations are marked and being further cleared for visitors to view. Both sites may be reached by trail.

The Perham Stream Birding Trail system forms an east-west oval of about 2.4 miles. Spur trails to striking viewpoints, rattling and rumbling Perham Stream, the old settlement cemetery, and the site of the settlement swimming hole provide options to extend a hike to nearly 3.5 miles. A variety of shorter loops await as well., and the Perham Settlement Museum, across the road from the trailhead, is also a must-see. Walk for an hour, or two, – or spend a half-day exploring every foot of the trail system and extra time at viewpoints.

As for the birding, the location in an edge environment – stream, fields, mixed age hardwood-softwood forest, surrounding high peaks – makes the valley of Perham Stream an ideal spot for migrating and resident birds. The winds are quite strong on the day of my hike, with temperatures in the low 20’s – conditions that keep the winter birds in shelter. On less brisk days, expect to see blue jays, chickadees, doves, grosbeak, juncos, pine siskin, redpoll, and a raven or two.

Trailhead register with open fields beyond.

Trailhead

The trailhead is directly across from 553 East Madrid Road, location of the Museum in an historic barn. This point is immediately north of the Perham Stream bridge on the East Madrid Road. From Phillips, at the junction of Routes 4 and 142, I follow Route 142 for 2.0 miles to the East Madrid Road, which leads north. The road ascends the long East Madrid ridge, changing from paved to gravel surface, before dropping down to Perham Stream 4.7 miles from Route 142.

Greeting me when I park is Carson Hinckley, Historian of the museum. Carson updates me on trail conditions and refreshes me on the intriguing history of the settlement. Recent excavation has located the fieldstone foundation of an extensive roadside barn and home complex that stretched an impressive 200’ along the west side of the road. The stretch of connected buildings included a two-story barn, livestock building, woodshed, farm house and ell. Carson is generous with his time, and I appreciate his remarkable historical perspective. The Hinckley family goes back five generations at Perham Stream.
The supply of trail maps has been depleted. Carson informs me that the Maine Trail Finder website has a map of the Perham Stream Birding Trail.

Let’s Hike

Let’s hike! I had planned to hike on snowshoes, but find that winter hiking boots will work well. Two inches of powder lies upon firm crusted snow underneath. Footing is good. I move my water bottle – wrapped in a wool sock – from an outside pocket to the inside of my pack, to protect it from freezing. I am ready.

A low ‘moose-fence” lines the edge of the broad hayfield where the trail begins. On a moose fence the top bar is only three feet above the ground – looking like an unfinished fence. But the idea is for a moose to step over the fence – not walk right through it! Carson bids me a good hike, and returns to the museum. Now I am alone, unbroken snow extends towards far woods. There is a supreme quiet.

Perham Stream

Perham Stream.

First destination is Perham Stream, 200 yards across the open field. Ice covers much of the rocky stream, but there are open spots where the charging waters put up a mild roar. Low lying sun sparkles on the rippling surface. These waters, draining off Franklin County’s high ground, are on their way to Orbeton Stream, the Sandy River, the Kennebec River, and the Gulf of Maine. Imagine that!

Carson has informed me that through the Atlantic Salmon Restoration Project underway in Maine, one day salmon may once again swim upstream to Perham Stream, as they did generations ago. Maine is the last remaining state in the the USA with a wild Atlantic salmon population.

I continue down a forest-lined spur trail, once a sheep path, that parallels the stream. Mine are the only fresh footprints, as will be the case throughout my hike this day. This spur is a quarter mile out and back route. There are plans to reopen the sheep trail beyond its current end point for a direct route to “The Point”, aka “Cow Point”, at the far southwestern edge of the trail system – which my next destination.

To Cow Point

Reversing direction, I hike back to the main trail, the Cow Point Trail, still in view of the East Madrid Road trailhead, and swing west. I pass the remains of an old Dodge car that had been converted into a farm tractor. Farm families were quite resourceful – an enduring Maine tradition – and this is one fine example of that. In 100 yards I skirt a sand pit which lies to the left, and ascend gradually to another snow-covered open field and dramatic views of the Saddleback Range to the northwest.

Saddleback Junior and The Horn rise dramatically against a sharply blue sky, snowfields distinctive on their very tops. What appears as a snow squall hangs above the main summit of Saddleback. More likely than a squall on this clear afternoon is the effect of strong winds carrying snow from snow-making equipment up and over the range. The sun plays on the cloud of wind-borne flakes – the look of a great snow-globe.

The high-lying hayfield where I stand offers an extraordinary view straight north towards Redington Mountain and the range of North and South Crocker Mountains, all three peaks exceeding 4000’ elevation. This is a rare look, usually hidden from south-lying vantage points by intervening ridges. The Perham Stream valley, and this particular hayfield, have just enough elevation to allow this view. When I turn eastward, there rises Mt. Abraham, its extensive high elevation rock rubble bright white. I enjoy a look at six of Maine’s 4000 footers from this one spot!

On to Cow Point, so-named because farmers drove cattle from the Perham Settlement to the Sandy River and Rangeley Lakes Railroad via this location. The steep but once well-trod route down to the confluence of Perham and Orbeton Streams has grown up in woods since cattle drive days. Imagine the noise, if not mayhem, when the cattle rumbled passed by! Three sitting stumps have been placed here, in what is now a quiet spot, with views toward Big Jackson and neighbor peaks of the Tumbledown Jackson Range.

To Another Saddleback View

From this extreme southwest point of the trail system, I turn to the north, walking a broad pathway through a mix of rock maple, white birch, fir, and white pine. This section is the old Cow Point Road, never paved, simply a grassy farm way connecting field to field. Tracks abound: snowshoe hare, ruffed grouse, red squirrel. One set puzzles me – the pattern is that of a porcupine, but I see no belly mark. Usually a porky leaves a trail looking like someone dragged a bag of flour through the snow, with footprints on either side. The pattern is skunk-like, but I don’t see skunk in winter. Possibly a fisher? The thaw-freeze cycle, coupled with the recent snowfall, make track identification a bit of a puzzle.

A spur to the left (west) leads a quarter mile to a Saddleback Range viewpoint, again with three sitting stumps. I linger to watch the “snow globe” effect, retrace my steps, continue east, find more tracks of hare and grouse, reach hayfields once more. I notice quite a few young white pine at the edge of adjacent woods. Today’s windy conditions explain why. Along the north and western edges of the fields rise high white pine, most of them crotched or crooked enough to escape the logger’s saw. Perhaps there is a message there about an advantage to trying to be perfect! Prevailing winds scatter cones from these mother trees to the south and east – hence the young pine downwind.

Pathway through the conifers.

More Perham Settlement History

Three-quarters of the way around the trail system loop, I reach a small field in sight of the north-lying Perham Settlement Cemetery, and head there. Surrounded by a white moose-considered fence, the cemetery bears an American flag and shows other signs of being well tended – the fence square and true, the paint unblemished, headstones clean. Some stones indicate that the deceased were born in the 1700’s. Imagine that.

Next stop on my loop trek are the foundations of the former East Madrid Post Office, and the schoolhouse. Neither was a large building. They stir my thinking. Each building, in its own way, connected this settlement of farming families to the wider world. Conjure images of people coming in from their far-flung farms – on foot, on horseback, by horse-drawn wagon, by Model T (or old Dodge) to gather their mail. Imagine the voices of children coming and going, their outside made-up games at recess, stepping away from the farm for a few hours, sent off to school by families who then, as now, aspire for their children to be prepared to engaged in a fulfilling way with the world beyond. Or just imagine what it was like to a child, every day to look upon, to walk about, this striking valley of forest and field, at the foot of ledge-topped high peaks.

From these sites, I step out onto the East Madrid Road to return to the trailhead where I began my hike – barely 0.1 mile beyond. Carson appears again to welcome me back, and to inquire about the hike. It was a fine one, for certain, a good way to start the winter hiking season. I have enjoyed high peaks views, quiet woods paths, intriguing tracks, quite a bit of history, and extraordinary quiet.

I thank Carson, bid him well, and head for home and the warmth of a wood stove.

Gift Giving?

Here is a gift idea. Give the gift of a winter walk – perhaps to your children or grandchildren, spouse, dear friend; maybe to yourself. In Franklin County, we live amidst some of the most pristine and strikingly beautiful terrain in earth. Peace, quiet, and simple beauty, are precious gifts. You can’t beat the price.

I hope to see you on trail this winter.

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Winter Hiking Tips

• Dress in layers – for warm, but not too much warmth. Hikes speak of the “winter sandwich”: wicking base layers (underwear), a fleece or wool mid-layer, and a wind blocking shell. In quite cold conditions, I add a down or down imitation jacket between the fleece and the shell.

Perspiration will flow even at cold temperatures. Moving that moisture away from the skin is critical to avoid hypothermia. Wicking layers aid that process. If my exercising heats me a bit too much, I simply remove a layer and place it in my daypack.

Avoid cotton next to the skin, including the feet. Cotton absorbs and holds moisture, creating an air-conditioning effect, which is dangerous in cold weather.

• For footwear I use insulated boots of moderate weight, with wool socks. Snowshoes and flexible boot crampons are standard in my gear set. Today’s hike in 2-3 inches of snow is an exception in that I did not use either one. In snow any deeper than that it is more comfortable and less tiring for me to use snowshoes, than to walk the “snow wobble” that comes with walking in deep snow in boots alone. Note that on a mountain trail expect snow depths to increase with elevation.

The crampons are for ascending and descending steep pitches, and for ice – neither of which I experienced on the fairly level terrain of the Perham Stream Birding Trail. Trekking poles aid stability and posture, and reduce fatigue. I use these on all my hikes, winter and summer.

• Bring water and a snack. Drink every hour, thirsty or not. Winter air can be very dry. Surprisingly, dehydration – which can contribute to hypothermia – is a danger in winter. Cold temperatures may not stimulate thirst, but the body is working hard and needs water to do so. To prevent my water bottle from freezing I place it inside my daypack, inside a heavy wool sock for insulation. Meanwhile I am burning “fuel” in winter, maintaining body temperature and hiking., both. I usually eat a piece of fruit, a homemade trail bar or trail mix, or a half bagel, once an hour. It is like throwing another log on the fire, and forestalls fatigue.

Hike “smart” to hike safely!

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